If you’re on the lookout for the latest skin care ingredient that can smooth and plump your complexion, you’ve probably seen influencers talking about exosomes, which claim to offer a wealth of anti-aging benefits. But before you buy into the hype, have you really thought about what they are, and whether they’re effective?
Exosomes are tiny, naturally occurring vesicles that skin and other types of cells release. They transport bioactive molecules (think: peptides, fats and proteins) to other cells, explained Dr. Jacob Beer, a dermatologist at Beer Dermatology in West Palm Beach, Florida.
There are dozens of serums, creams and other skin care products, some selling for hundreds of dollars, that contain exosomes, and medical spas often incorporate them into procedures like microneedling and laser treatments. But it’s important to note that exosomes are not approved by the Food and Drug Administration for cosmetic use.
Advertisement

Getty Images
Exosomes are a misunderstood skin care trend, though, since their behavior varies widely depending on their source and what they’re transporting, according to the experts we spoke to.
Still, exosomes “show promise” for skin rejuvenation, Beer said. “It’s important to just remember that not all exosomes are the same, not all preparations are the same, and some formulations have more data than others.”
Advertisement
Here’s what to know about exosomes and their potential benefits and risks.
What are exosomes, exactly?
Think of exosomes as tiny “message bubbles that cells send to each other,” explained Dr. Jennifer Holman, a dermatologist with U.S. Dermatology Partners Tyler in Texas. The bubbles contain instructions (in the form of proteins, growth signals and genetic material) that “tell cells how they should behave.”
They can be derived from different sources, such as platelets, stem cells, fat or plants, and carry “biologically active messenger cargo,” such as proteins, lipids or signaling molecules, added Dr. Krishna Vyas, a plastic surgeon in New York City. Those instructions can potentially influence inflammation, repair, recovery and regeneration in the “recipient cells.”
The skin benefits of exosomes.
Some exosomes have been studied more than others, and much of the research has involved small patient samples or hasn’t been done on human subjects, Beer said.
Advertisement
“Not all exosomes are created equal, as they don’t contain the same instructions,” Holman said, so their effectiveness depends on what’s inside the bubble.
Take platelet-derived exosomes, for example. Platelets are cells that are drawn to areas of injury and help the body heal. Holman said platelet-derived exosomes are tiny and combine with or dissolve in fats, so they can be applied topically and tell the skin to heal itself.
Some studies have shown that exosomes applied topically can lead to “collagen production, repair of elastin and new elastin production, decreased inflammation and redness, and speeds post procedural healing time,” Holman said.
Advertisement
Vyas noted: “These effects are thought to occur through regulation of inflammatory pathways and activation of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen and elastin synthesis.”
Exosomes are also sometimes applied to the skin after microneedling, a treatment that uses tiny needles to treat acne scars, wrinkles and sagging skin. Vyas said this approach may enhance the topical penetration of exosomes. While this is an off-label use and potentially risky, a small study suggests that pairing exosomes and microneedling could reduce pore size and improve skin texture.
However, since there are no long-term, randomized clinical trials on exosomes, Vyas said their benefits should be considered “as promising but not conclusively established.”
Advertisement
Are exosomes safe?
Redness and irritation are commonly reported side effects of topical exosomes, Beer said. Those usually go away once you stop using the products.
However, when exosomes are administered with microneedling or injected into the skin (which is done in some medical spas), “all bets are off,” Beer said. There are cases of patients developing scars, discoloration, mycobacterial infections, or an immune response known as a granuloma.
“The greater concern lies in uncertainty surrounding long-term safety, repeated use and product consistency,” Vyas said.
Advertisement
Since exosomes are derived from different sources, there’s a lot of variability in products that makes quality control, reproducibility and safety challenging, he added. Exosomes aren’t FDA-approved for medical or cosmetic use in the U.S. So there’s no universal quality standard for products containing them, Holman said.
“Exosomes can be sold under cosmetic regulations as long as they are not making therapeutic claims,” Holman said.
Should you use exosomes?
Serums and moisturizers containing exosomes for topical use are mostly safe, Beer said.
Still, it’s difficult to know what type of exosome products contain or how they’re sourced because they’re not subject to the FDA’s labeling requirements, Vyas said. Some may make exaggerated claims about the product’s benefits, Holman noted. In South Korea, officials recently started prohibiting the term “exosomes” as a cosmetic advertising term to prevent misleading claims.
Advertisement
However, when it comes to injecting exosomes or pairing them with microneedling, Beer said, “I avoid that like the plague.”
Many providers don’t understand what exosomes are, the data behind them, or what can go wrong with their use (such as infections or immune reactions), Beer added. “I counsel my patients to avoid injecting or microneedling exosomes until we have better data because, however expensive the treatment was, it will likely be much more to correct it later.”
Complications from these procedures could mean numerous laser treatments to treat discoloration and scarring, for example, he noted.
Advertisement
Because of the variability of products, lack of transparency, and limited scientific data, Vyas said, “Exosome-based aesthetic products should be considered investigational rather than established therapies.”

























