It’s not uncommon to get gray hair as we age, but of course humans want to reverse any sort of natural phenomenon the human body goes through that hints at our mortality. As such, there are products designed to stop those gray hairs from happening ― some supplementspromise to prevent gray hair from coming in in the first place, while other topicalsclaim to reverse the gray. Even L’Oreal found reason to pursue the subject, announcing in 2011 that an all-natural pill would be out within five years thatcould prevent gray hair. (A rep from L’Oreal shared that it is no longer a focus area for their research and innovations team).
But as that abandoned project might hint at, the reality of preventing and reversing gray hair isn’t as simple as popping a pill—at least not yet.
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While the mechanisms behind hair color are complicated, in the simplest terms, gray hair is caused by the loss of pigmentation. As we age, we produce less hair pigmentation, which results in gray hair. For the most part, when exactly this occurs seems to be genetically determined.
But there are some reasons gray hair may sprout sooner. Craig Ziering, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Ziering Medical, says that vitamin deficiencies, specifically of vitamin B6, B12, D, E or biotin, can accelerate the growth of gray hair. Oxidative stress from both internal factors (like an unhealthy diet) and the environment (like UV radiation) might play a role, too. Smoking has a significant effect: “Studies have shown that smokers are two times more likely to start graying before age 30 as non-smokers,” Ziering said.
Even hair products — including those used to color or bleach hair — can include ingredients that decrease the melanin in hair. “Hydrogen peroxide, which is in many hair dyes, is one such harmful chemical. Excessive use of products that bleach hair will also eventually cause it to turn white,” Ziering said.
Stress, too, seems to be a factor — think of the oft-mentioned comparison of presidents in their first year versus their last.
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Keeping hair from going gray is big business — just take a look at the range of products available claiming to act as a gray hair treatment. But according to the experts we spoke with, the ability to reverse gray hair or prevent age-related color changes isn’t possible. “While certain nutrient deficits and health conditions may spawn premature gray hairs, it’s impossible to restore your natural hair color if your grays are genetic or due to natural aging,” Ziering said.
There’s reason to stay hopeful, though, if less gray hair is your goal. While most of what we know about gray hair says that once a hair is gray there is no going back, one study found that reducing stress just might help (easier said than done, right?). Researchers found that in some subjects, previously gray hairs repigmented after subjects went on vacation. The study has its limitations, but it illustrates for the first time that stress — and the reduction of it — actually can impact hair color.
“We can’t fully stop our hairs from going gray,” said Martin Picard, a researcher at Columbia University and author of the study. “This study shows that aging is malleable ― it is not a fixed, predetermined process we are doomed to experience in the same way no matter what we do. Our behavior, and perhaps how we learn to see the world and the stress we create for ourselves, seem to influence how our cells age, and when our hairs will eventually go gray.”
Besides reducing stress, there are some other tactics that might reduce the development of new grays — but only if lifestyle or nutritional deficiencies are the cause.
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“Certain vitamins and minerals help ensure that your hair follicles have the maximum nutritional value to perform the metabolic functions in the bulb, one of which is production of the pigments (melanin) that the hair needs to retain its natural color,” Ziering shared. “Amino acids and proteins that trigger metabolic function in our follicles are beneficial,” he said. With that in mind, eating foods with the aforementioned vitamins can help, as can consuming antioxidants can counteract the effects of oxidative stress, like fresh fruits, green tea, olive oil, and fish.
“Eat well, sleep well, work against environmental stressors and avoid smoking,” Ziering suggested. “Use sun protection for hair and scalp. Boost calcium, protein, and B vitamins.”
As for those supplements claiming to prevent gray hair, technically they may work if they are making up for nutritional deficiencies, but no more than eating a healthy diet or taking a general multivitamin might.
Currently, treatments are being tested that have shown to reverse graying and repigment hair. “These agents include enzymes such as catalase which breaks down hydrogen peroxide, known to accumulate in the dermis of graying hair, so there may be treatment and prevention in the future,” Ziering said. “Looking ahead, this may someday be the foundation of a treatment which will reverse the exhaustion of the pigmentary potential of the melanocytes of hair bulbs,” he said.
“Not today and not tomorrow, but in the near future we may potentially unearth a ‘Benjamin Button’ effect resulting in restoration of richer, more youthful hair color for the 40s, 50s, 60s and beyond,” he added.
Picard is continuing to study gray hair as well. “I think we’ll learn more about the influence of the mind on the body. How our human experiences become embedded in our biology — in our hairs,” Picard said. “The mind and body are connected, and this shows us even in hairs!”
In the meantime, there is always the option to embrace the gray, which it turns out is the most stress-free method of all.
I remember when I was the youngest one in the room.
I was in my early 20s, working at my first professional job, and my colleagues were at least twice my age. I thought they were so much more sophisticated than I was. They had children, and money issues, and were concerned about their aging parents and their medical needs. My only stress was finding the right outfit for a Saturday-night date. I was free and clear with no real responsibilities other than paying my rent and getting to work on time.
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When I was 22, and my parents were in their 50s, they had careers, traveled and went out with friends, but I still thought of them as incredibly old, and I couldn’t imagine ever being their age.
But life has a way of racing ahead, and 28 years later, I celebrated my own 50th birthday. I didn’t feel “old,” or any different than I had at 40 or 30 or even 20. But society had given me the message that being 50 was not something to celebrate.
The night before I turned 49, I was distressed, worried that in a year people would know I was 50, as if that number would somehow be branded across my face. I wasted time not enjoying that year because all I could think about was what was to come. That pressure that we feel to continue to be young can take its toll. Not caving into that pressure, and enjoying your life is what keeps you youthful.
I remember one of the first times I realized I had gotten older was when I walked near a construction site. The workers looked over my head and whistled at the 20-something woman walking behind me. I haven’t been whistled at in years, and even though I hated it, I missed knowing that I was whistleable (if that’s even a term).
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Nobody wants to deal with sexual attention from creepy guys, but you don’t want to feel sexually invisible either.
As we age, most changes are subtle, and until we look back at pictures, we often don’t see them. Depending on our health, and our situation in life, we age at different rates. Some people don’t care about how their skin and body changes, while others fight it to the end.
When I saw my first gray hair, I couldn’t stop staring at it, because it took me a while to comprehend what that thing was that was growing out of my head. I was in my 40s, and as any parent will tell you, the easiest way to get gray hair is to have children.
Parenting is a hard job, and there’s no way to know how you’re doing at the time. (You can’t count when a 12-year-old tells you that you’re the worst because you took away their screen time.)
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I now know my husband and I have done a good job. Not only do our young-adult sons like to spend time with us, but when we hand them petty cash, they respond, “No, thank you, I’m good.”
I still have the same energy I had in my 30s; even before I had kids. I still work out almost every day. The difference is now I’m one of the oldest in my weightlifting classes. But I’m also one of the strongest.
The women in my class are mostly in their late 30s and early 40s and have a gaggle of children. I spend weekends reading a book in front of a roaring fire while they’re at kids’ birthday parties. I’ll take getting older any day if it means not having to listen to one more person singing “Happy Birthday” to a screaming 3-year-old who doesn’t like loud noises.
When I was busy raising my two sons, I didn’t take time for myself. I didn’t have the time to exercise or relax with a cup of coffee unless I was willing to get up at 5:00 a.m., and I wasn’t giving up sleep for anything. Even my dogs got to the vet more than I got to the doctor. I did try to eat healthily, at least when I wasn’t eating leftover chicken nuggets off my kids’ plates.
But by the time I was 50, I no longer had to put everyone in front of me. I could now take care of getting that mammogram, seeing friends and traveling with my husband.
And not having to take care of getting dinner on the table for a picky child or having to help someone study the French and Indian War when I’d rather be watching “The Bachelor” never ceases to delight me.
As women, the number of years we’ve been on the planet can brand us. For those of us who took time off from our careers to have our kids, reentering the workforce at an older age can work against us. When you’re older, you bring wisdom and experience to any situation, so employers should rush to hire us. Many of us have raised families, know how to budget, are great at organizing schedules and have good communication skills.
Getting older also came with a new mindset. I used to concentrate on things I regretted that I had or hadn’t done. Like, why the heck did I stay with my high school boyfriend when he was obviously such a jerk? Now that I’ve lived many more years, those regrets have evaporated, because now I know that those choices have helped make me who I am today.
I also stopped caring what random people thought of me. When I was in my 20s, I wanted to be liked by everyone. I was also afraid to take risks. As I entered my 50s, I realized I have a voice and an opinion, and I’m not afraid to use either one.
So, much to my surprise, my life wasn’t over when I hit 50. Instead, I started a new chapter and reinvented myself: I became an author for the first time when my novel ”After Happily Ever After” was published. I didn’t go through any type of “crisis”; rather, it felt more like midlife empowerment.
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Fifty didn’t mean I was going to slow down at all. In fact, I found myself busier than ever. I know plenty of women who published their first books in their late 60s or 70s, and I still have a long way to go to reach those ages. (OK, maybe not a long way, but I have a lot to do in the years before I get there.)
Now that I’m older, I wonder if when my parents hit 50 they also felt the renewed energy I’ve experienced. They were rid of their kids and could do what they wanted, when they wanted. They recovered the freedom they had before my sisters, and I were born. They could even run around the house naked ― although that’s not something I want to imagine.
So, maybe 50 is the new 35, and I’m good with that. But I’m also good with the idea that 50 is just 50. I’m in the prime of my life. I mostly do what I want. I am still a contributor to society, whether by writing my novels or by being there for my friends and family. I plan to keep doing all of that for many years to come.
Leslie A. Rasmussen is the award-winning author of “After Happily Ever After.” You can follow her on Instagram @Leslierauthor or Facebook @AfterHappilyEverAfterNovel.
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There’s yet another skin care buzzword vying for its position as the Next Big Thing, but it’s highly likely you’ve officially reached “it”-ingredient fatigue. In this case, though, the it-ingredient sounds like it has some serious potential for repairing skin: stem cells.
In our bodies, stem cells create new cells and replace damaged cells. They can function as any cell in the body, which is one reason they are so powerful. While research is ongoing, stem cell therapies have the potential to treat diabetes, cancer, heart disease, Parkinson’s disease and more. But they are also controversial: Today’s approved therapies extract stem cells from embryos. (Adipose- and bone marrow-derived stem cells, which come from live, human donors, are also available ― although applications of these are limited and not currently approved for therapies by the Food and Drug Administration.)
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That brings us to stem cells in skin care. Despite the capability of stem cells, the claims made by stem cell skin care products aren’t much different than you’d find on a bottle of any other anti-aging product: diminished wrinkles and fine lines, firmer skin, smoother texture and more even tone. But stem cells, at least in theory, should do even more than that ― they excel at repairing skin and stimulating the growth of tissue, even where skin is damaged.
If these products really do harness the power of stem cells, perhaps the cost would be worth it. But do they actually work? According to Beibei Du-Harpur, a dermatologist and skin researcher (and a dermatology registrar and Ph.D. candidate in the U.K.), “There is no evidence that stem cells in skin care could be helpful, at present.”
“Unfortunately, the term ‘stem cell’ is highly marketable, but the products do not have robust peer-reviewed science behind them.”
– Beibei Du-Harpur, dermatologist
Jordan Wang, medical research director at the Laser and Skin Surgery Center of New York and a board-certified dermatologist who’s published several papers on stem cells in dermatology, explained, “Frequently, the marketing is over-exaggerated and solely meant to increase sales irregardless of the science.”
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“Unfortunately, the term ‘stem cell’ is highly marketable, but the products do not have robust peer-reviewed science behind them. The studies I have seen are very small and appear to be aimed at convincing an audience that has no scientific background,” Du-Harpur said.
Flawed studies aside, one of the biggest problems is that the stem cells in your serums aren’t actually from humans. Instead, the stem cells are often derived from plants ― anything from apples to echinacea to various flowers.
“There is less convincing data on the benefits of plant-derived stem cells as it pertains to skin health, and there are many questions on if their use truly translates to worthwhile and noticeable results,” Wang said. One issue is that plant stem cells effectively speak another language than our own stem cells, and therefore they are unable to communicate with each other in the way our own stem cells can.
“There is no theoretical reason why this would have any benefit on human skin,” said Du-Harpur, referring to plant stem cells.
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KATERYNA KON/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY via Getty Images
A computer illustration of human embryonic stem cells, which are unlike the plant stem cells found in skin care products.
Other times, formulas contain byproducts of stem cells without containing any stem cells themselves. This might be on the label as “stem cell conditioned medium,” which is basically the waste product of stem cells. Growth factors are also a commonly used stand-in for stem cells, sometimes called EGF, or epidermal growth factor. Growth factors are a protein that can stimulate cell growth and speed up wound recovery. While stem cells replicate themselves to create new cells, EGF tells cells to replicate to stimulate new growth.
“Although such compounds from certain types of stem cells such as mesenchymal stem cells have ‘anti-inflammatory’ effects, the research behind these products and formulations have not been extensively peer-reviewed,” Du-Harpur said.
While so-called stem products typically don’t actually include stem cells at all (at least any that our cells could communicate with), there’s a big problem with the idea of including them in an over-the-counter product in the first place: how difficult it is to maintain live stem cells.
“Another issue is the stability of stem cells in topical formulations, where breakdown and viability are significant concerns,” Wang said. To survive, stem cells need extremely controlled environments, which is something they don’t get when bottled into the creams and serums for consumers today.
“If we could harness the theoretical regenerative power of stem cells into a skin care product, it would be utterly unethical of doctors to NOT use them in the myriad of life-changing dermatological diseases that would benefit from them.”
– Du-Harper
“The way they are maintained in labs is to keep them in a dish at 37 degrees [Fahrenheit], with a very specific soup of substrates, enzymes, etc., which are constantly being changed,” Du-Harper explained. “Even so, they have a limited life span in this environment. The likelihood of a cosmetic formula being able to replicate this is pretty small.” (Du-Harpur added that if a stable formula were created, there’s no evidence that even this would provide anti-aging benefits. “Skin is a barrier, and the stem cells would not penetrate the barrier,” she said.)
As a final note, when discussing stem cells there is an obvious moral issue. Not only because of the difficulty of obtaining stem cells, but also because of their potential capabilities. “If we could harness the theoretical regenerative power of stem cells into a skin care product, it would be utterly unethical of doctors to NOT use them in the myriad of life-changing dermatological diseases that would benefit from them,” Du-Harper said.
“The claims made by companies who have products that are ‘stem cell’-related often sound very impressive,” Du-Harper said. “If their product was truly able to deliver some sort of skin regeneration, there would surely be a social responsibility to make available their technology for people who have a serious need for it, e.g., those who have been disfigured by burns scarring, patients with genetic skin fragility and chronic wounds.” Currently, however, there is no treatment or usage guide from reputable dermatologists that actually use stem cell therapies, because this kind of remedy does not exist.
That could change in the future, given the current research. “Stem cells are being actively researched to develop treatments for debilitating skin conditions and treat currently untreatable conditions,” Du-Harpur said. But these treatments aren’t just a cream or lotion that you can buy off a shelf, and certainly won’t be used for smoothing wrinkles or firming skin. Treatment would likely be delivered via injection and would have to go through many levels of approval and testing first. “Although there is great promise, it is an area of medicine (regenerative medicine) that is in its infancy,” Du-Harpur explained.
If you’re looking for the sort of treatment you wish stem cell products delivered, the good news is there are ways to effectively coax your own stem cells into repairing your skin. And if you use retinoids or peels, or have gotten laser treatments, you already have. These procedures remove the top layer of keratinocytes, or skin cells. When this happens, stem cells in your skin create new skin cells. “The effect of this is commonly described as ‘increased cell turnover,’ which actually means your stem cells are speeding up its rate at which it forms a new keratinocyte,” Du-Harpur said.
Until research catches up — and issues of morality and packaging are sorted out — the most effective way to treat skin is probably the way you’ve already been doing it. When it comes to stem cell products, save your money.
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You’ve been so good about taking care of your face — slathering on sunscreen, remembering your night cream and making time to get facials regularly. But your hands may be making you look older than you’d like.
“Hand anti-aging measures should start early in life, because the face and the hands are the most sun and environmentally exposed areas of the body,” said dermatologist Cheryl Burgess.
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If you’re noticing sun spots and bulging veins, you could always try treating your hands with the same over-the-counter TLC as your face. But some people are taking more drastic measures and turning to a cosmetic procedure that can give their hands a more youthful appearance: hand lifts, aka hand rejuvenation.
“Just as we can revolumize the face, we can do the same thing with the hands,” said Joshua Zeichner, a dermatologist and associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital.
If you’re thinking a hand lift is a face lift for your hands, you’re not quite on the right track. We talked to experts to explain the process.
Why your hands look so much older than your face
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Your hand are frequently exposed to the elements — and they have a more delicate composition than you might have realized.
Dermatologist Janiene Luke, an associate professor at Loma Linda University, explained what’s going on with your body: “As our collagen production decreases with age, the skin can become thinner, making underlying veins and tendons more visible. We can also lose fat and subcutaneous tissue, while the small muscles that are in the hands can be prone to atrophy. Sun damage can become cumulative over time, causing sun spots to become more prominent. And some people have a tendency to have small benign growths on the hands, too.”
Who’s getting hand rejuvenation, anyway?
These treatments target the backs of the hands, not palms or fingers.
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“Good candidates for these treatments may be people who have noticed that the skin on their hands has become very thin and that their bones and blood vessels are prominent, giving the hands a skeletal appearance,” said dermatologist Arianne Shadi Kourosh.
Dermatologist DiAnne Davis said patients are increasingly seeking out hand treatments.
“With the exception of the face, the hands are one of the most expressive parts of the body,” she said. “Given that everyone is working from home more often these days, their hands are a lot more visible on their computer and tablet screens, especially if they use them while talking.”
What happens during a hand lift — and what it costs
You may have a pretty good understanding of the nip-and-tuck procedure that’s part of a face lift, but a hand lift is an entirely different matter. It’s not a surgical procedure, and the skin is never cut. In fact, nothing is “lifted” at all. Instead, doctors will most likely recommend a course of treatment that includes filler injections.
The process starts with some numbing cream or lidocaine, Davis explained. Then come the injections.
“Small entry points are made on the back of the hands in between tendons and bones, and small amounts of either hyaluronic acid filler or biostimulating agents are slowly injected,” she said. “The product is then gently massaged so that it can be evenly distributed throughout the entire back of the hands.”
A hand lift can cost anywhere between $2,000 and $4,000, depending on what is done and the volume of filler that’s used, according to facial plastic surgeon Michael Somenek. He said people who receive hyaluronic acid filler, which is the most common, can expect to see results last for nine months to a year.
If you’re considering a hand lift, it’d be a good idea to do some research and probably to have a consultation with a doctor.
“It often takes several syringes to give you enough volume to make a meaningful improvement,” Zeichner said. “The cost per vial of the filler ranges depending on what you’re using and what part of the country you live in. On average, costs vary from $800 to $1,000 per syringe. Optimal results may take several syringes.”
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Hand lifts can get even more complicated
Some patients may benefit from a combination of hand treatments, including use of a laser to target a specific area.
“I tend to do a couple of procedures for hand rejuvenation,” Luke said. “I’ll inject filler but also do something like Intense Pulsed Light, a treatment that targets the melanin in the sun spots and addresses the surface of the skin to improve its overall appearance.”
Zeichner said laser treatments work well for people who have dark spots or crepey skin, and that there are different lasers for different issues.
“We have lasers that can lighten dark spots and others that can resurface the skin,” he said. “My go-to laser for the back of the hands … works by punching microscopic holes in the skin, creating a controlled wound and taking advantage of the skin’s natural wound healing process. This stimulates collagen to thicken the foundation of the skin, and it also helps the skin shed darkly pigmented cells to lighten hyperpigmentation and even skin tone.”
Sound like a bit much? Improve your hand care routine at home.
“None of these treatments are a substitute for good skin care habits over time,” Kourosh said. “It’s important to moisturize the hands and apply sunscreen each morning to the backs of the hands in order to prevent and minimize the damage from the sun and harsh exposures.”
Davis suggested using moisturizers with vitamin A derivatives to help stimulate collagen production. If you want to boost your hand care regimen even more, she said you might want to consider supplements of biotin, also called vitamin B₇, which can help with the appearance and strength of nails. “Certain lightening ingredients, such as kojic acid or niacinamide, also can help reduce the appearance of brown spots on the back of the hands,” she said.
Dermatologists previously paired up with people who use their hands for a living to give us their best product recommendations for dry hands, and here are their top picks:
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It’s not news to anyone that women have to prove their worth at almost every stage in their lives. While it’s already challenging enough for women to claim their rightful place in professional fields that are saturated with men, the struggle is also there within their own community, especially in the world of beauty influencers.
The value of beauty bloggers and influencers has historically been dictated by a woman’s age, with younger women attracting most of the lucrative work in the field. So what’s it like once those young women grow up and want to continue their life’s work at a more advanced age?
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We talked with fabulous beauty bloggers and influencers over the age of 45 who are #proaging, slaying their professional game and influentially educating everyone on what it’s like to age gracefully and naturally. Here’s what they have to say about their journey in the beauty industry.
Founder of Is This Mutton?, a U.K.-based fashion and beauty blog for women over 50
I definitely attract different brands, and in the main they are brands that are specifically tailored toward older women. The first challenge is getting brands to see the value in using older women in their marketing and advertising. There’s nothing more infuriating than seeing face creams for “mature skins” being advertised by girls in their 20s.
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Secondly, most of the brands have a blind spot when it comes to older women and social media. They occasionally “like” a picture we may have posted showing ourselves wearing a new lipstick, but they rarely share it. This makes me think their social media teams are probably young people in their 20s who don’t want to taint the brand with pictures of older women. Yet the women behind brands like Charlotte Tilbury, Pat McGrath Labs and Lisa Eldridge are women in their 40s or older.
Thirdly, the brands’ social media teams seem to want only Instagram or TikTok. The number of women over 45 on those channels is nowhere near as big as it is for younger people. Many influencers with huge followings bought their followers when this was possible. If you analyze their numbers, half of their followers are either bots or men. Fashion brands have started to see the light: We see more diversity now on the catwalks. But beauty brands seriously lag behind.
The final challenge is the wording they use when they target products at women over 45. Anti-aging? Why are so we so against aging? We all get older, nothing stops that. We need to embrace aging and stop bullying older women into thinking they have to turn the clock back and look younger in order to be acceptable.
I was under 40 when I started my beauty blog, but as soon as I hit the big 40 I noticed that big brands (that actually specialize in anti-aging) like Olay, It Cosmetics or L’Oreal would rather work with younger influencers and completely stopped working with me. And most makeup brands have no interest working with women over 40 ― it’s almost like they think only young women use makeup. But I do love makeup and so do many of my followers! The same is true for PR agencies ― they cater to the 20-to-30-year-old influencers.
I don’t know if younger bloggers make more money than I do ― this is a big secret and nobody is actually talking openly about that.
Amanda Ramsay
Blogger behind Amanda Ramsay, a popular Australian beauty blog especially for women over 40
I didn’t intend to be an influencer. I’m an experienced professional makeup artist who simply saw a gap in the market ― no one here in Australia was talking to this huge collection of women. They were greatly forgotten, ignored or left to feel inadequate. I’ve got the skills and experience as a pro artist to share my knowledge, and the passion to make sure women get the right info, without the marketing BS, so they can remain seen, feel fabulous and rock on at every age.
So I guess it’s different over 45. Beauty PR is more focused on the younger generation of influencers, but I see that as a reflection of the whole industry. The beauty industry’s narrative has been youth as the only definition of beauty, and scaremongering the more “mature skinned” beauty into being fearful, like there is something wrong with aging.
I suspect as brands catch up to the notion, beauty PR and brands will seek out us older birds. The wave of change is coming, albeit a little slow, but the pro-age movement is gaining traction!
Things have changed greatly since I started blogging in 2008. When I started, I researched who was blogging for beauty and skin care for the over-40 market and there was absolutely no one I could find. I don’t think PR and marketing firms knew how to handle it. For the most part, I was ignored, and a few years later I started getting noticed, but I would get countless pitches daily on things like “get the look of Kim Kardashian” or celebrities in their 20s. I would oftentimes respond either asking if they had anything that would be of interest to my age market, but most wouldn’t acknowledge my requests.
I was mostly offered free product to test ― all without compensation. Once in awhile I would be compensated, but nothing like younger bloggers get now. It would be a big deal if I got $100 for testing and promoting a product. I think the challenges are just having your voice heard in a manner you are comfortable with. I don’t want to hype a product that someone is pushing me to get the word out there if it’s absolutely nothing I would use or anyone in my age group would use. Sure, the latest seasonal makeup release is fun and pretty, but is it something women over 40 would even wear? If it is, I’m all for sharing about it.
Courtesy of Mary Zavaglia/Daphne Kapetas/Dawn Gallagher
Left to right: Mary Zavaglia, Daphne Kapetas and Dawn Gallagher
When I first moved into this space of work I felt out of place, as the younger bloggers all looked the same — very “Kardashian” — almost plastic-looking. I felt intimidated and dreaded anyone asking me my age! But slowly I decided that I didn’t have to fit that mold. I embraced being bolder, not older, and found my own tribe of bloggers/influencers and I looked forward to going to my launches. I was so flattered when the younger bloggers started to approach me and ask me for my beauty and hair tips! It was then I realized that we all have a space to work in.
For PR brands, youth sells. Yet, it’s interesting that PR agencies are slow to acknowledge that it’s the older demographic that have the money to spend and they relate to someone like myself touting a product or showing them how to apply the latest light reflecting or blurring product. Being an over-45 blogger/influencer has so many wonderful advantages. For one, I have a much larger audience to cater to, so I have far more opportunities.
Skin care advice from a woman over 45 who has aged well, in my experience, is something that a younger age group does respect ― especially when that person has obviously not resorted to fillers or injectables. When I was a young chemist working for one of the largest cosmetic companies in the world at the time, I remember how disappointed I was when the face of Lancôme, Isabella Rossellini, was dropped not long after she had just turned 40.
My diverse experience and qualifications are a huge advantage, but this can only be earned with time. But PR agencies and advertisers traditionally do use younger people, even when it comes to trying to target to an older audience. If we look at the sheer number of younger versus older bloggers, they do not represent our society, but then the same can be said for other marginalized groups.
Being a beauty blogger/influencer over the age of 45 is different! It’s different in the sense that many brands are finally starting to recognize that this age group has the disposable cash and can afford to spend it on items and products they like. I am attracting all kinds of brands that are finally recognizing that beauty comes in all ages and that beauty is truly how you feel inside, and we can always enhance our natural beauty with makeup, skin care and hair care.
My brand is growing and my work has increased dramatically as a vlogger/blogger. When it comes to money, I’m not really sure how much younger bloggers make, but I am paid very well for my services. However, I still struggle to convince brands that it is a great investment to recognize this demographic and the potential it can produce for them with ROI (return on investment). The advantages I have are that I am one of the very few beauty blogger/vloggers in the space and my Youtube channel has received over 4 million views and counting. It helps that I have been a beauty and wellness expert for decades.
For people of a certain age, these are the wonder years — the years when you look in the mirror and wonder, “What happened to my face?” If the children’s story “TheSaggy Baggy Elephant” is starting to hit a little too close to home, you might want to see how our panel of experts can help you understand what’s happening and what you can do about it.
Why does the skin on your face sag, anyway?
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Yes, you can blame the matrix, no matter which color pill you took. “The structural foundation of your skin is provided by something called the dermal extracellular matrix,” dermatologistBrandon Kirsch told HuffPost. “This matrix is composed of molecules such as collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans, also known as hyaluronic acid, which is an active ingredient in skin fillers. Aging and environmental factors such as sun exposure, stress, pollution and smoking lead to the breakdown of these substances, leading to wrinkles, crepiness and sagging skin,” he added.
The face you have today is not the same one you had yesterday. “Our face is kind of a moving target, with changes over time in the bones of our skull, as well as the fat and muscles underneath the skin,” dermatologistArianne Shadi Kourosh, assistant professor at Harvard Medical School, told HuffPost. “Loss of these underlying support structures that are holding up the skin, and shifting of the fat from our cheeks downward toward the jowls and jawline, can add to the sagging appearance of the face.”
Gravity is great for keeping us, well, grounded, but it’s not our friend when it comes to sagging skin. “The facial bones that provide a framework start to resorb and lose density and structure, so it’s like the hanger holding up the garment loses its strength,” dermatologistCorey L. Hartman told HuffPost. “Youthful fat pads also start to shrink and disappear, leading to the decrease of another layer of deep, structural support.”
Lifestyle Changes To Make Right Now
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There are simple changes you can make to prevent even more sagging, the experts say. Here are some suggestions:
“A sugary diet can cause a process called glycation of collagen, in which sugars bind to it and accelerate the sagging and aging of the skin,” Kourosh said. “Drink enough water and maintain a healthy, low-glycemic index diet,” Hartman suggested. And knock off the sauce, too. “Alcohol is a diuretic, which means it will deplete your body’s natural store of water,” Kirsch said.
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“This further weakens the skin, and it creates textural irregularities and pigment changes, as well,” Hartman said. “Avoiding exposure to first- and secondhand tobacco smoke is of critical importance, since that smoke contains a high concentration of free radicals, which are highly oxidative and damaging to all human tissue,” Kirsch said.
“Chronic exposure to ultraviolet light causes reduction in collagen and elastin, as free radicals contribute to an increase in matrix metalloproteinases that further degrade collagen, which gives our skin firmness,” Hartman said. “Commit to using daily sunscreen with SPF 30 to 50.”
Weight Loss
“Massive weight changes, especially weight loss, can affect the skin’s sagginess,” dermatologistJaniene Luke told HuffPost. “There may be redundant or excess skin when a large amount of weight is lost suddenly.”
How Topical Treatments Can Help To Firm Up Sagging Skin
There’s no such thing as a facelift in a jar, but there are some products that might help. “Certain ingredients in topical creams can be helpful in small and gradual ways,” Kourosh said. “But they’re limited in the depth and extent of their effects.”
“While topical products do not give the same results as a cosmetic procedure would, there are some that are effective and can help improve the appearance of aging, sagging skin,” Luke said. “Many of my patients are either afraid of or not interested in undergoing surgical procedures or facelifts, so they’re more inclined to try products or non-invasive procedures.”
“Although few results are documented with high-quality and objective evidence, based on my decades of clinical experience, it’s clear that limited benefits for sagging skin can be achieved with topical products,” Kirsch said. “These topicals work primarily to stimulate the formation of collagen, elastin and other structural components of the skin matrix. In addition, good moisturizers, when used in a regimented manner, can provide modest improvements by hydrating the skin.”
Ingredients To Look For
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When you’re shopping, Kouroush said she tells her patients to “take a scientific approach, read labels and look for the right ingredients that have evidence behind them.” Here are some ingredients the experts said to watch for:
Antioxidants, Plant Extracts And Peptides
“Antioxidants scavenge free radicals that cause a breakdown of collagen, and they act as a cofactor in the production of new collagen,” Hartman said. “Antioxidants like Vitamins C and E, as well as plant extracts and peptides, have been used with some success to address the various pathways involved in sagging skin,” Kirsch said. “They target the extracellular matrix to address the loss of supportive structure and elasticity, and the antioxidants protect against contributing environmental factors.”
“Antioxidants such as Vitamin C and niacinamide have been shown in the literature to increase collagen production,” Luke said. “Peptides are amino acids that can penetrate the skin and signal our cells to produce more collagen and elastin.”
“Some eye creams contain caffeine because it’s a vasoconstrictor, which means that it shrinks blood vessels,” Kourosh said. “This helps because it reduces blood flow, which decreases inflammation and redness and ‘depuffs’ swollen areas of skin. Some slimming or cellulite creams also can contain caffeine or xanthene stimulants, which are found in cocoa beans, tea and yerba mate. It’s also possible that regular massaging of the cream into affected areas improves circulation and the appearance of the skin.”
“These are the building blocks of a healthy skin barrier, like the mortar that secures the ‘bricks’ of skin cells,” Hartman said.
Growth Factors
“They promote healthy, efficient production of key proteins in the skin,” Hartman said.
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Hydroxy Acids
“Also called fruit acids, these are some of the most widely used and studied anti-aging skin care compounds,” Kirsch said. “When applied to the skin, they increase epidermal proliferation, thickness and hydration. Clinical trials have shown the effectiveness of these ingredients in reversing the effects of photo-aging and improving wrinkles, skin elasticity, tone and hydration. The two main classes to look for are alpha hydroxy acid, such as glycolic acid, and beta hydroxy acid, such as salicylic acid.”
“The highest level of medical evidence supports the use of retinoids such as retinol, tretinoin, adapalene and tazarotene,” Kirsch said. “They’re closely related to Vitamin A, and they’re well-recognized for their ability to stimulate collagen production and enhance the appearance of skin by effacing fine wrinkles, lightening age spots, firming skin and improving surface texture. They also imbue the skin with a flattering, rosy glow.”
“They can help slow the sagging process, especially in those who use them regularly for months to year,” Kourosh added.
The Top Anti-sagging Skin Care Products Recommended By Experts
HuffPost may receive a share from purchases made via links on this page. Prices and availability subject to change.
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Face Moisturizer
La Roche-Posay
“For those whose skin requires more moisture than a lightweight serum, this is a good choice,” Kirsch said. “It’s also great for sensitive skin types, and its soft, oil-free texture is easily absorbed.”
Alastin Restorative Neck Complex (left) “This is ideal for helping skin that’s aging, has dark spots or is tissue-paper thin,” Kirsch said. “It helps increase skin hydration and supports the production of new, healthy elastin and collagen.” Get Alastin Restorative Neck Complex for $110.Alastin Restorative Skin Complex (right) “This is ideal for fine lines and wrinkles,” Kirsch said. “It restores volume by supporting production of healthy elastin and collagen, and it improves skin texture and evens skin tone. It’s great for reducing dryness caused by dry climates and retinoids, because its potent antioxidants help protect the skin from free radical damage.” Get Alastin Restorative Skin Complex for $195.
Revision Skincare
Revision Skincare
SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore
SkinCeuticals
SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF
SkinCeuticals
Hartman said, “This is the first antioxidant serum made with oily, acne-prone patients in mind. In addition, it contains vitamin C and ferulic acid, plus salicylic acid and silybin to control oiliness.” Kirsch noted that this product has been clinically proven to reduce environmental oxidative damage by up to 41%.
Luke and Hartman both recommended this product. Luke said, “It’s pricy, but worthwhile for the growth factor serum that produces visible results in four weeks. The new improved formulation builds upon the TNS technology that made SkinMedica a household brand, but with the inclusion of peptides and antioxidants, and no more smelly odor.”
“This is the one product I’ve used that has made a noticeable difference in my face when it comes to tightening and toning skin,” makeup artist Ashley Rebecca told HuffPost. “The microcurrent technology is incredible, and I use it every day for at least five minutes. I recommend this to all my clients as well, and they’ve been loving their results.”
There’s been plenty of Tokyo 2020 headlines about Hend Zaza, the Syrian table tennis prodigy who, at 12 years old, is one of the youngest Olympians of all time.
But there’s some striking personal stories on the other side of the age spectrum, too.
“I feel very good to be here. But this will for sure be my last Olympics,” she told reporters. “I’m 46 years old. Nothing is going to change it.”
“I’m alive, I’m happy, I’m here without any injuries, and I can stand on my own,” she added with a laugh.
Then there’s Australian equestrian Mary Hanna, who at age 66 is the second-oldest female athlete in Olympic history and the oldest Olympian competing in Tokyo.
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Through their efforts, Hanna and Chusovitina are changing the conversation around age and agility. They’re proof that you can compete or put yourself up to a physical challenge way past what is considered “your prime,” said Michael Stones, a professor emeritus at Lakehead University in Ontario, Canada, who researches healthy aging and physical performance.
“It’s terrific that this year’s Olympics includes so many younger and older athletes,” he told HuffPost. “They show that age alone is not an insurmountable barrier to excellence in physical activities.”
These Olympians also lend the games some experience and maturity, especially in team sports, said Sandra Hunter, a professor of exercise science and director of the Human and Athletic Performance Research Center at Marquette University in Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
“These older athletes can help mentor the younger ones, particularly with all the mental and psychological challenges that we’ve seen,” she said. “They bring a level of maturity to the teams and surrounding athletes that allow the younger athletes to learn.”
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Below, we spotlight 10 older Olympians who are giving it their all at the Tokyo Summer Games.
Mary Hanna, 66
Ryan Pierse via Getty Images
At 66, Australian equestrian dressage competitor Mary Hanna is the second-oldest woman in Olympics history, after U.K. equestrian Lorna Johnstone, who was 70 at the 1972 Games.
Hanna, pictured here at the 2016 Rio de Janeiro Olympic games with Team Australia’s Aislin Jones, already has sights set on the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.
“It’s only three years away,” she said after competing in dressage qualifiers in Tokyo. “Unless my body really breaks down, I’m certainly aiming for Paris.”
Tokyo was Hoy’s eighth Games appearance and if he has his way, he’ll compete in the the 2032 Olympic Games in Brisbane.
“I’ve got my eyes set on 2032 — Brisbane,” Hoy said. “Big incentive to get there. We will wait and see. Vassily [my horse] is going really well. While I’m healthy I will continue doing what I love doing.”
Xia Lian Ni, 58
ANDREJ ISAKOVIC via Getty Images
Tokyo 2020 marks Xia Lian Ni of Luxembourg’s fifth Olympic appearance. The 58-year-old lost her second-round match to South Korea’s Shin Yubin, who is an Olympic first-timer.
Ni isn’t your typical Olympian: According to Radii China, the Shanghai-born mom practices only two or three times per week, warms up for just 10 minutes pre-game and oftentimes relies on her instinct over her sight because of presbyopia.
Oksana Chusovitina, 46
LOIC VENANCE via Getty Images
Though she didn’t qualify for the vault finals, Uzbekistan’s Oksana Chusovitina received a standing ovation and overwhelming support from her fellow gymnasts after competing in her eighth and likely last Olympics.
“It was really nice,” she told reporters after her event. “I cried tears of happiness because so many people have supported me for a long time.”
“I didn’t look at the results, but I feel very proud and happy,” she added. “I’m saying goodbye to sports. It’s kind of mixed feelings.”
Nino Salukvadze, 52
Sergei Bobylev via Getty Images
After her Tokyo efforts last weekend, Georgian shooter Nino Salukvadzebecome the only woman in Olympic history to compete in nine Olympic Games.
If her son has his way, Salukvadze will compete in her 10th Olympics in three years in Paris.
“The whole time we were talking [last], he kept saying, ‘This is out of the question. There are three years left. You can go for your tenth Olympics, you have a chance. Why not take it? If you quit, I will quit too!’ And I don’t want him to quit,” she said.
Abdelkebir Ouaddar, 59
JEAN-SEBASTIEN EVRARD via Getty Images
Santiago Raul Lange, 59
Clive Mason via Getty Images
Savate Sresthaporn, 58
Kevin C. Cox via Getty Images
It’s never too late to start! Shooter Savate Sresthaporn of Team Thailand didn’t begin shooting until 2007, after being encouraged to take up the sport by a friend.
Abdullah Al-Rashidi, 58
Kevin C. Cox via Getty Images
Phillip Dutton, 57
Molly Darlington via Reuters
At age 57, Australian-born Phillip Dutton is competing in his seventh Olympic Games. Dutton, an equestrian who’s competed for Team USA in his last three Olympics, said he’s inspired by NFL quarterback Tom Brady.
“I was very inspired by Tom Brady in the Super Bowl, because he kind of proved that there’s no set age or number for when you can do your best,” he told Sidelines Magazine in May. “Certainly, I think along those lines and don’t think there’s a set number when you have to stop.”
“I’d like to go for as long as I can, but I also don’t want to be stupid about it,” he said. “I don’t see a retirement date at this stage. As long as I’m not embarrassing me or the family, I think I can keep going for a while!”
If you’re talking about paper streamers to hang in the gym, then “crepe” is a perfectly good word. But when you’re talking about your eyes, face, neck, hands, arms and even (ugh) your knees, then it becomes something truly dispiriting.
Crepey skin, or, in medical terms, skin that has lost laxity, tends to show up more often in women than in men, and it usually becomes more noticeable with aging.
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“I liken it to a warped and stretched-out rubber band that doesn’t retract back to normal, leaving the skin loose and wrinkled,” dermatologist Stacy Chimento told HuffPost. “In severe cases, the skin can appear as thin as tissue paper.”
“It’s the kind of skin you can ‘pinch and gather,’” plastic surgeon Tanuj Nakra told HuffPost.
The thinner the skin to begin with, the more vulnerable it is to the ol’ pinch and gather. And if there’s a spot you’ve always ignored, watch out. “I always tell younger women that I wish someone told me when I was their age that my arms would get wrinkles,” Joan Sutton, CEO and founder of 707 Flora, told HuffPost. “I’m over 50, and I’ve been diligent about staying out of the sun, using good skin care and getting facials regularly, so my face and decolletage look good — but I neglected my arms, and now I feel like I’m fighting to hold back the crepey skin in those areas.”
Crepe happens. Here’s how.
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What in the world is going on here? Mostly, the passage of time. If you’ve hung around the planet for enough revolutions around the sun, you’re likely to notice skin like this somewhere on your lovely self.
“By the time people reach 50, or sometimes even at younger ages, the skin experiences degradation or loss of collagen and elastin/elastic fibers,” dermatologist Jeremy Brauer told HuffPost. “That results in compromised resiliency and increased fragility in the skin.”
Drazen_ via Getty Images
Dermatologists’ top suggestion for preventing crepey skin is to be diligent about wearing sunscreen.
For every time you forgot to put on sunscreen, there might be some new crepe creep happening. “Excessive sun damage is a key factor for accelerating the breakdown of elastin in the skin, which gives it that natural snapback,” Chimento said.
For women, lucky us, there also are hormonal issues at play. “The ovaries gradually decrease estrogen production starting in perimenopause, which typically begins around age 40,”Bryan Barron, content and research director atPaula’s Choice, told HuffPost. “The decline in estrogen leads to further loss of collagen, fragmentation of elastin fibers, reduced capacity for skin to hold on to water and thinning of skin’s surface layers, due to a slowdown of hyaluronic acid and ceramide synthesis.” And once these losses begin to occur, the skin needs more help than ever. “That decline in estrogen leaves unprotected, exposed skin even more vulnerable to environmental damage, increasing the need for daily UV protection with a broad spectrum sunscreen,” he said.
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And if you’ve done your best to stay in shape, here’s some bad news: “I see many over-50 women who are thin and fit, but that can make the skin look much more aged and crepey,” dermatologist Sheila Farhang told HuffPost. Because a lower overall body fat percentage means a smaller overall “facial volume,” Farhang says that fitter or thinner people often will have less fat around areas like the temples, eyes, mid-cheek and lower face. “Fat pads usually hold everything up and together,” she said. “Less fat, especially in these areas, can contribute to crepey skin in mature women.”
Here’s how to prevent crepey skin in the first place.
The experts we spoke with had a number of suggestions for lifestyle changes you can make to help reduce crepey skin. The top one was wearing sunscreen year-round on any part of your body that’s exposed to the sun.
If you smoke, well, you know what we’re going to say: “Quit as soon as possible,” Barron said. “Smoking deprives skin of the nutrients it needs to repair itself. Also, moderate your intake of caffeine and alcohol, both of which dehydrate skin and exaggerate a crepey texture.” DermatologistDiAnne Davis pointed to smoking and other air pollutants as contributing factors: “They produce free radicals that can damage plump, healthy skin cells, and that can lead to crepeiness,” she told HuffPost.
“It’s also important to maintain a healthy weight,” dermatologistDeanne Mraz Robinson told HuffPost. “Fluctuations of big gains and losses can cause the skin to stretch and retract, wearing down the elasticity.”
Take it easy when you clean up, too, dermatologistSeemal R. Desai told HuffPost: “It’s a good idea to avoid excessively hot showers.” Barron suggested using a gentle, moisturizing body wash. “You don’t want to use highly fragranced shower gel or worse, bar soap.” He recommendedDove Sensitive Skin Body Wash. “It produces a skin-smoothing, creamy lather that won’t leave skin depleted,” he said. You’ll also want to avoid harsh body scrubs that scratch and tear at already delicate skin. “Crepe-like texture can’t be scrubbed away,” he said.
And since what you put into your body tends to be reflected on the outside, many of the experts we spoke to urged increasing water intake and eating a balanced, healthy diet, both of which can contribute to overall skin wellness. You may want to consider supplements, too. “More studies are emerging supporting collagen supplements, and I usually recommend them for my over-50 patients,” Farhang said.
If you want to take your treatment up a notch, you can work with a doctor.
If you’d like to work with a dermatologist for in-office treatments, here are some of the most popular ways people address crepey skin:
Fractionated radiofrequency: “The No. 1 procedure in my office for crepey skin is fractionated radiofrequency with microneedling, such as Inmode Morpheus8, which stimulates collagen production,” Farhang said.
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Ulthera: “This uses targeted ultrasound energy to heat the supporting tissues below your skin. This intense heat breaks down some of the cells and stimulates the growth of collagen to tighten your skin,” Robinson said.
Fraxel and Pico: “These laser therapies use heat to create columns of injury to the skin, which will stimulate the growth of new collagen. This helps support your skin and smooth out wrinkling from the inside out,” Robinson said.
Dermal fillers: “The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved Restylane Lyft, a hyaluronic acid filler traditionally used in the face for use in the hands, which is a commonly affected area of the body for crepey skin,” Robinson said. “I use a hyper-diluted Radiesse dermal filler to the chest, arms and above the knees,” Farhang said.
Get after it early and relax a little, OK?
Just in case you know a Zoomer who’s eager to hear your skin care advice, or if you plan to return to earth in another life and take much better care of your skin, keep these words from Chimento in mind: “It’s best to start treating the body as carefully as the face as early as your 20s.”
Finally, remember this: “It’s not so easy getting older, and as women, we tend to put a lot of pressure on ourselves for how we look,” Sutton summed up. “I’ve been concerned about aging since I was 30, which is a crazy thought to me now, at age 51. I’m still chasing youthful skin, but I’m also embracing the imperfections that come with age and that have taken me decades to create.”
These are products experts recommended to treat crepey skin.
HuffPost may receive a share from purchases made via links on this page. Prices and availability subject to change.
CeraVe Moisturizing Cream
CeraVe
“I recommend moisturizing with thick emollients, which helps to replace the ceramides and lipid concentration in the skin, which can help with overall skin hydration,” Desai said. “I really like the CeraVe moisturizing brand line, and I recommend the creams over lotions. One of my favorite moisturizers in the entire world, and one I recommend to patients every day, is the CeraVe Moisturizing Cream. It’s a rich, non-greasy and fast-absorbing cream that releases a steady stream of moisturizing ingredients, including essential ceramides and hyaluronic acid. It’s also fragrance-free, so it’s great for even the most sensitive skin types.”
“I think it’s really important to use a retinoid at bedtime to help stimulate collagen production,” Brauer said. “I like this brand because it significantly reduces the appearance of crepey skin and wrinkles, with little-to-no irritation.”
Eyelids often are one of the first places crepey skin appears. Eye Bright Cream reduces crepey changes and infuses active ingredients to reverse puffing and aging. “For night, Hyrdroveda Eye Cream is the perfect companion product, since it deeply hydrates the thin eyelid skin and reverses UV damage from the day,” Nakra said.
SkinBetter InterFuse Treatment Cream for Face and Neck
SkinBetter Science
707 Flora Moisture Matrix
707 Flora
“This product works wonders with crepey skin — and I know that firsthand,” Sutton said. “Its formula plumps skin with humectants like apple saccharides that draw in moisture and hydration. I use it on my arms every time I get out of the shower and it really makes a difference.”
Arianna Sholes-Douglas remembers the moment her body was in the grips of perimenopause ― though she didn’t recognize it for what it was at the time, despite being an OB-GYN and integrative health physician focusing on women’s health. Sholes-Douglas was performing a C-section, a surgery she estimates she had done over a thousand times, and her brain just blanked.
“I had a total brain freeze. I couldn’t remember what to do,” she recalled. “It was very scary, and I didn’t know who to talk to or what to do.”
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At first, she worried it was early-onset Alzheimer’s. But the big changes she’d been experiencing in cognitive function were hormonal. She was going through perimenopause, the transitional period before menopause when a woman’s body starts making less estrogen until eventually her ovaries stop releasing eggs.
And she’s not alone about being in the dark. Many Gen X women and cusp millennials — who are at the age range when perimenopause has begun or could soon start — have far too little support and information.
“Because in their minds, they’re thinking menopause is an old lady issue,” she added. “They think it’s only relevant when they stop having a period.”
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But that’s not true. So here are three important things “Xennial” women should know about perimenopause:
It can start in your 30s or 40s.
There aren’t lines around when perimenopause begins, in part because it varies by individual and also because the types of symptoms are so broad. The term perimenopause really just means “around menopause.”
It’s also a stretch of time that can drag on for a while. Many women start to experience symptoms five or even 10 years before they stop having a period (though the average is about four years). And given that full menopause can happen when women are in their 40s or 50s, perimenopause can begin when they’re in their early 40s or even mid-30s.
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“Since 5% to 7% of women are fully menopausal by age 45 (they’ve gone that magical full year without a period), they could be experiencing these symptoms at age 40, not thinking a thing about menopause — because these symptoms can be very vague and don’t come with a big sign ‘You are entering perimenopause,’” said Mary Jane Minkin, an OB-GYN with Yale University and founder of the informational website Madame Ovary.
You’re still able to get pregnant during perimenopause.
If you’re a woman in your 30s or 40s who is planning to have children (and many women are) and you’re fretting that you might instead enter perimenopause, don’t freak out. It’s very much still possible for women to get pregnant during this phase, though it’s definitely worth bringing up with your doctor if you have concerns.
The symptoms go way beyond hot flashes.
When most people think menopause, they think of hot flashes. And many (if not most) women getting closer to menopause will experience hot flashes, or brief feelings of being overheated, at some point — ranging from pretty mild to really severe.
But there are so many other symptoms that can come along with perimenopause, including missed periods or periods that are heavier or lighter than usual, mood swings, changes in cholesterol levels and bone density, urinary incontinence and cognitive fuzziness.
“Many [women] get disrupted sleep ― usually falling asleep quickly as they are exhausted, but are then up at 1 a.m., sometimes with a hot flash, sometimes without. They may have headaches, they may be achy, they may have some vaginal dryness or urinary leakage (although that usually comes later),” Minkin said.
Perimenopause can affect your sexual health and well-being, as well. “The sexual aspect part of perimenopause is something I deal with a lot,” Sholes-Douglas said. “Women are very much caught off-guard when they experience a decline in libido, vaginal pain, vaginal dryness — and they don’t know why.”
But while the possible symptoms associated with perimenopause are wide-ranging, they all really come back to the hormonal changes women go through in the run-up to menopause, as estrogen and progesterone levels fall — or rise and fall in uneven spikes.
The Good Brigade via Getty Images
Finding appropriate care is not always easy for women during perimenopause.
Finding adequate care and support can still be difficult.
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Though there’s far more information available to women and health care providers now than had been the case a few decades ago, and many active support communities have flourished, perimenopause is still something women aren’t adequately educated about, according to experts.
Minkin said Gen X women are probably “slightly better prepared, but not dramatically so.” Sholes-Douglas was more emphatic: “Most women are just not prepared.”
There are a few reasons for this, one of which is that there simply isn’t a test doctors can perform to see if women have entered perimenopause.
“Hormone levels may not show much,” Minkin said. For example, a doctor might do an estradiol test to check your estrogen levels, but since normal levels during a menstrual cycle range wildly (from 45 to 350 picograms per milliliter), it’s hard to know where your level should be.
“Let’s say we draw a blood level of 50. Well, is that normal? It may be. But if your level should be 300, that’s low,” Minkin explained.
“It’s a tough diagnosis to make at the time,” she added. “When the patient goes that year without the period, you can then say, ‘Well, hey that was all perimenopausal!’”
On top of which there is a lack of consensus about how to treat symptoms of perimenopause even if it is clear that’s the issue. Hormone therapy, which involves taking supplemental hormones, is one option, but some past studies have indicated it can come with other health risks. Some doctors might recommend lifestyle changes to help manage symptoms; in other cases, women might take medications to more directly address such symptoms as vaginal dryness or mental health changes.
Unfortunately, a lot of this ends up falling on women. They end up needing to connect the dots in their own symptoms and find health care providers who have experience dealing with perimenopause. Which is why it is so important for Xennial women to be aware of what’s happening in their bodies now, or what lies just ahead.
“I’ve had countless patients tell me they went to the doctor and told them they suspected they were perimenopausal, and the doctor said: ‘Oh, you’re too young for that. You’re too young for that,’” Sholes-Douglas said.
“You should not assume that your doctor is going to know more about this than you do,” she added. “On some level, obviously they will. But don’t underestimate the power you have.”
A couple of years ago, while on a bike-packing trip through Armenia and Georgia, my friend Amy and I walked through the streets of Tbilisi. We were both 49 years old at the time, and I told her about how, over the last year, I felt as if I had become more emotional and more easily angered than I used to be and I didn’t know why.
“Ummm, perimenopause?” she said, laughing. The thought had never crossed my mind. I don’t know why perimenopause and menopause aren’t talked about more, why this huge transition in a woman’s life seems to be such a “secret” subject in polite society. Once I figured out that I was indeed in the midst of perimenopause (and I still am two years later), so many things began to make sense. I think I’ve experienced every possible symptom of perimenopause, including hot flashes, trouble sleeping, brain fog, forgetfulness, anxiety and heavier period bleeding than usual. And then there are the skin issues.
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I’ve never in my life had any kind of acne, but over the past couple of years, a lone pimple would pop up every month or so. The skin on my elbows was drier than it ever used to be. And small hairs from my Eastern European heritage would show up more consistently on my chin.
I talked to some medical experts to understand some of what was going on.
What happens during perimenopause
Dr. Mary Jane Minkin, clinical professor in the Department of Obstetrics, Gynecology, and Reproductive Sciences at the Yale University School of Medicine and a board-certified obstetrician and gynecologist, first told me that I’d be all right. I’d make it through this transition, even if sometimes I felt as if I were going crazy. Then she explained that the cause of most of my issues was sporadic, fluctuating hormone levels.
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“The way I describe it to my medical students,” Minkin said, “is that if you were to draw a picture of what hormone levels do during perimenopause, they would look like the Dow Jones industrial average in September of 2008: It went very far down but it wasn’t smooth; it was jaggedy.”
As Minkin outlined for me, during a normal Jane Doe menstrual cycle, estrogen and progesterone levels vary significantly, but usually in a regular, cyclical way. A ballpark baseline level for estrogen at the beginning of a woman’s period is 40 to 50 picograms(pg) per milliliter. A week or so before the start of the period, levels go up to a high of 300 or 350 pg per milliliter. During ovulation, the area the egg comes out of makes progesterone as well. Post-menopause, estrogen levels go below 20 pg per milliliter and stay that way while the ovaries cease making progesterone.
“And then,” Minkin said, “there’s perimenopause. That’s the tricky area, because what happens is things go really crazy.” What she meant by this is that estrogen and progesterone levels no longer go up and down in a regular way. They are sporadic, sometimes spiking, then dropping more quickly than during a normal cycle. And this causes all sorts of havoc in our bodies (and emotions).
What perimenopause does to your skin
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As far as skin-related issues go, testosterone is predominantly to blame. Our ovaries, besides making estrogen and progesterone, also make testosterone. On average, the ovaries stop making estrogen at 51 years old, while testosterone production can go on until about the age of 60. “Your estrogen levels are declining, but you’re still chugging out a good amount of testosterone,” Minkin told me.
And the unwanted hair? Testosterone is to blame for that, too. “As your estrogen is reduced, testosterone becomes more prominent and may cause unwanted hair growth,” said Dr. Laura Carinci, clinical assistant professor in the Department of Obstetrics and Gynecology at NYU Langone Health.
It’s androgens (a group of hormones responsible for “traditional” masculine traits and reproductivity) that cause unwanted hair. “Some people in general have hair follicles that are more sensitive to male hormones, which anti-androgen therapycan help with,” Carinci explained.
Estrogen, on the other hand, is responsible for helping to keep collagen in our skin. When estrogen levels go down, so does collagen production, which can exacerbate wrinkles or dry skin.
How to treat skin issues associated with perimenopause
So what can we do to treat skin issues related to perimenopause? Minkin encouraged women to talk to their doctor about the possibility of estrogen therapy. “A lot of my patients take estrogen because of skin issues,” she said, “because they don’t like having skin dryness and loss of elasticity, and estrogen does help.”
“The biggest thing in terms of preventing and helping yourself with skin changes really is skin protection, wearing sunblock that blocks both UVA and UVB rays, such as products with zinc and titanium oxide,” Carinci said.
<div class="js-react-hydrator" data-component-name="Slideshow" data-component-id="7946" data-component-props="{"index":21,"contentListType":"slideshow","id":"60ae664be4b019ef10e26752","title":"Sunscreens That Won't Make You Break Out","enhancements":{"fonts":{"primary":{},"accent":{},"caption":{}}},"dek":null,"view":"slideshow","slides":[{"embedData":{"type":"hector","url":"https://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/60ae662f1e00000493102a61.jpeg","queryParams":{},"width":1800,"height":1800,"credit":"Sunday Riley"},"type":"image","common":{"id":"60ae6662e4b03135479f33ab","caption":"This mineral-chemical hybrid sunscreen contains anti-inflammatory turmeric to help reduce redness, as well as lutein, a plant-derived nutrient that can help protect against damage caused by blue light.
Get Sunday Riley Light Hearted Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Daily Face Sunscreen for $35.","credit":"Sunday Riley","creditUrl":"","source":"","thumbnail":{"url":{"fileName":"60ae662f1e00000493102a61.jpeg","type":"hectorUrl"},"caption":"This mineral-chemical hybrid sunscreen contains anti-inflammatory turmeric to help reduce redness, as well as lutein, a plant-derived nutrient that can help protect against damage caused by blue light.
Get Sunday Riley Light Hearted Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Daily Face Sunscreen for $35.","credit":"Sunday Riley","width":1800,"height":1800,"ops":""},"title":"Sunday Riley Light Hearted Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Daily Face Sunscreen","type":"image","meta":null,"summary":null,"badge":null},"provider":null},{"embedData":{"type":"hector","url":"https://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/60ae65f821000031907f2828.jpeg","queryParams":{},"width":1200,"height":1200,"credit":"Elta MD"},"type":"image","common":{"id":"60ae6676e4b0d56a83f1cb5c","caption":"This hybrid sunscreen is a favorite among people with skin issues, as it contains niacinamide, which can help with acne, rosacea and discoloration. It’s also available in a tinted version.
Get EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 for $37.","credit":"Elta MD","creditUrl":"","source":"","thumbnail":{"url":{"fileName":"60ae65f821000031907f2828.jpeg","type":"hectorUrl"},"caption":"This hybrid sunscreen is a favorite among people with skin issues, as it contains niacinamide, which can help with acne, rosacea and discoloration. It’s also available in a tinted version.
Get EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 for $37.","credit":"Elta MD","width":1200,"height":1200,"ops":""},"title":"EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46","type":"image","meta":null,"summary":null,"badge":null},"provider":null},{"embedData":{"type":"hector","url":"https://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/60ae660b2200007680f080ed.jpeg","queryParams":{},"width":600,"height":600,"credit":"Kinship"},"type":"image","common":{"id":"60ae666ee4b0d45b7531605e","caption":"This reef-safe, non-nano zinc oxide formula contains turmeric and a proprietary probiotic that supports healthy, clear skin.
Get Kinship Self Reflect Probiotic Moisturizing Sunscreen Zinc Oxide SPF 32 for $42.","credit":"Kinship","width":600,"height":600,"ops":""},"title":"Kinship Self Reflect Probiotic Moisturizing Sunscreen Zinc Oxide SPF 32","type":"image","meta":null,"summary":null,"badge":null},"provider":null},{"embedData":{"type":"hector","url":"https://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/60ae663f2200007680f080f3.jpeg","queryParams":{},"width":750,"height":750,"credit":"Tatcha"},"type":"image","common":{"id":"60ae6658e4b0a256831acf1a","caption":"Good for all skin types, Tatcha’s sunscreen contains Japanese wild rose, which helps improve texture and reduce the appearance of pores. It also acts as a primer underneath makeup.
Get Tatcha Silken Pore Perfecting Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 35 for $65.","credit":"Tatcha","creditUrl":"","source":"","thumbnail":{"url":{"fileName":"60ae663f2200007680f080f3.jpeg","type":"hectorUrl"},"caption":"Good for all skin types, Tatcha’s sunscreen contains Japanese wild rose, which helps improve texture and reduce the appearance of pores. It also acts as a primer underneath makeup.
Get Tatcha Silken Pore Perfecting Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 35 for $65.","credit":"Tatcha","width":750,"height":750,"ops":""},"title":"Tatcha Silken Pore Perfecting Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 35","type":"image","meta":null,"summary":null,"badge":null},"provider":null},{"embedData":{"type":"hector","url":"https://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/60ae66021e00000993102a5e.jpg","queryParams":{},"width":4934,"height":7398,"credit":"Fenty"},"type":"image","common":{"id":"60ae6672e4b0d45b75316076","caption":"This two-in-one sunscreen and moisturizer goes on sheer, making it suitable for all skin tones, and works well under makeup. It also contains niacinamide, which helps to even skin tone and reduce oiliness.
Get Fenty Skincare Hydra Vizor Invisible Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen for $35.","credit":"Fenty","creditUrl":"","source":"","thumbnail":{"url":{"fileName":"60ae66021e00000993102a5e.jpg","type":"hectorUrl"},"caption":"This two-in-one sunscreen and moisturizer goes on sheer, making it suitable for all skin tones, and works well under makeup. It also contains niacinamide, which helps to even skin tone and reduce oiliness.
Get Fenty Skincare Hydra Vizor Invisible Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen for $35.","credit":"Fenty","width":4934,"height":7398,"ops":""},"title":"Fenty Skincare Hydra Vizor Invisible Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen","type":"image","meta":null,"summary":null,"badge":null},"provider":null},{"embedData":{"type":"hector","url":"https://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/60ae6637220000c07ff080f1.jpg","queryParams":{},"width":1301,"height":1306,"credit":"Supergoop!"},"type":"image","common":{"id":"60ae665de4b0a256831acf3d","caption":"Apply this mineral powder when you need to reapply your SPF and combat oiliness during the day.
Get Supergoop! (Re)setting 100% Mineral Powder SPF 35 for $30.","credit":"Supergoop!","creditUrl":"","source":"","thumbnail":{"url":{"fileName":"60ae6637220000c07ff080f1.jpg","type":"hectorUrl"},"caption":"Apply this mineral powder when you need to reapply your SPF and combat oiliness during the day.
Get Supergoop! (Re)setting 100% Mineral Powder SPF 35 for $30.","credit":"Supergoop!","width":1301,"height":1306,"ops":"crop_11_22_1253_1280"},"title":"Supergoop! (Re)setting 100% Mineral Powder SPF 35","type":"image","meta":null,"summary":null,"badge":null},"provider":null},{"embedData":{"type":"hector","url":"https://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/60ae661f210000368f7f282c.jpg","queryParams":{},"width":2000,"height":2000,"credit":"Sun Bum"},"type":"image","common":{"id":"60ae6666e4b019ef10e267f3","caption":"Keep this noncomedogenic sunscreen in your bag so you can easily apply it. It contains soothing aloe as well as vitamin E, which helps fight oxidative stress and may even help combat damage from sun exposure.
Get Sun Bum Original SPF 30 Sunscreen Face Stick for $10.99.","credit":"Sun Bum","creditUrl":"","source":"","thumbnail":{"url":{"fileName":"60ae661f210000368f7f282c.jpg","type":"hectorUrl"},"caption":"Keep this noncomedogenic sunscreen in your bag so you can easily apply it. It contains soothing aloe as well as vitamin E, which helps fight oxidative stress and may even help combat damage from sun exposure.
Get Sun Bum Original SPF 30 Sunscreen Face Stick for $10.99.","credit":"Sun Bum","width":2000,"height":2000,"ops":""},"title":"Sun Bum Original SPF 30 Sunscreen Face Stick","type":"image","meta":null,"summary":null,"badge":null},"provider":null},{"embedData":{"type":"hector","url":"https://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/60ae65ee2200006f80f080eb.jpg","queryParams":{},"width":2950,"height":3929,"credit":"Colleen Rothschild"},"type":"image","common":{"id":"60ae667ae4b0d56a83f1cb70","caption":"Boasting an oil-controlling, noncomedogenic formula, this mineral sunscreen won’t clog your pores. It also contains chia seed, which helps reduce inflammation while calming the skin.
Get the Colleen Rothschild Beauty Triple Defense Sunscreen Broad-Spectrum SPF 40 for $48.","credit":"Colleen Rothschild","creditUrl":"","source":"","thumbnail":{"url":{"fileName":"60ae65ee2200006f80f080eb.jpg","type":"hectorUrl"},"caption":"Boasting an oil-controlling, noncomedogenic formula, this mineral sunscreen won’t clog your pores. It also contains chia seed, which helps reduce inflammation while calming the skin.
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If you’re experiencing a lot of skin issues during perimenopause, you may also want to take a look at the products you’re using.
“There are a lot of hormonal shifts that are taking place in your body andit’s not linear. Your levels can go up and down unexpectedly,” said Dr. Rajani Katta, a dermatologist at the Baylor College of Medicine and McGovern Medical School at University of Texas Houston. “You may need to change the kinds of skin care products you’re using.”
Katta recommended switching to heavier creams or ointments for moisturizing in lieu of lotions, which have a high water content. “As soon as you get out of the shower, while your skin is still damp, apply a cream on top to lock that moisture into the skin,” she said.
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According to Katta, the most common places for hormonal acne are the chin and jawline. While teenagers tend to get blackheads and white lumps, women who are dealing with hormonal acne usually get those red pimples that come from under the surface.
“Most importantly, you want to make sure all your skin care products are non-comedogenic,” Katta said. Non-comedogenic means the product is formulated specially to not block the skin’s pores. Katta explained that over-the-counter acne spot treatments with ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid formulated in a cream base do dry up pimples and are likely more suited for hormonal acne, because they are not quite as intense and drying (to the skin) as prescription treatments. The reason for this is that most prescribed acne medicine has a gel base — and may even contain alcohol — which is more drying.
“For people who are experiencing fine lines and wrinkles in some areas on their face, we do recommend medicated products with a vitamin A derivative and retinoids, because those can help build up collagen,” Katta said. Just remember, though, that balance is always key.
“I’ve seen people start to go with anti-aging skin care products that just irritate the heck out of their skin. So it’s really important to find that right balance between something that will help you without irritating you,” she cautioned.
“It’s a phase and it will get better. It gets better. I find many of my patients in menopause really feel good once they’re there. Maybe because it’s a different stage of life, but many feel a sense of freedom and I think it can be a really great stage of life. I think you should look forward to it,” Carinci said.